2019 Howard Park Museum Release Riesling

One of the great joys in wine is drinking mature rieslings, and this one is excellent, really only just beginning its journey. It still has some primary fruit, but it’s starting to develop those slightly toasty lime characters that become so appealing with mature rieslings. It retains good primary fruit characters on the palate, and the fine, persistent acidity will ensure it continues to evolve over the next few years. An excellent example of an older riesling, with plenty of life still in the tank.

Six years old and still in youthful flight, how amazing is aged Riesling? Time spent in the cellar in which it was born is always preferable in capturing the integrity and quality of a well-aged Riesling. There is no better place, which is why everything remains so fresh in this little beauty of a Riesling. Highly aromatic aromas, rich and detailed, in jasmine, honeysuckle, lemon balm, lemon drop confection, a splash of herbal Thai basil, grapefruit, lime, pear. Yes, it’s pretty complex. It’s also tightly focused in the acidity department with a firm, steely backbone well in place. There is plenty of room for further ageing with this wine, it is remarkably youthful with a core of citrus, baked apple, spice and pear and sweet herbals, but little sign as yet of secondary development such as notes of honey and toast. An attractive lemon cream texture runs the length of the wine – a lovely feature. Still has time on its side.

When compared to the winery’s current release Riesling, this six-year-old has much more opulence and presence. An entry of kaffir lime, orange blossom and honeyed notes gives way to a generous, almost viscose mouthfeel, yet the palate retains an acidity that runs its length. There’s a lift of herby aromatics of fresh mint and lemon thyme to add to the complexity. A textbook example of how aged Riesling evolves into a slightly stockier, more nuanced glass of wine. Highly recommended.

The colour developing with only a hint of deepening to the pale hue. Fleshy developing nose: yellow apple flesh, honeycomb hints, pecan tart, lanolin, chalk, lime juice and tangelo-like citrus. Medium age bringing flesh and savoury threads that will slowly unravel over the next few years to complement the citrus and lime. Drying and gripping through a long tail. There’s still a vibrancy and intensity that offers pleasure.

A soft and succulent riesling that leans into its maturity, showing off honeyed elements, toasty notes, dried fruits and sweet spices amongst the last vestiges of freshness in green apple and grapefruity tang. There’s a pleasing, assured riesling here, gloss and richness ably lifted with vitality. It is drinking in a good spot now.